Ariel #97

[Bisquit]

Very Cool. Why don't you make it an articulating prod? You can pivot on the headstay post.

[ebb]

Seem to be out of the loop here. But I've been looking at the Trogear A-sprit. Two tubes
ideally coming from the bow slightly below the toe rail frpm either side of the bow. Can
be mounted on top. The A frame legs have only 15 degrees of separation, making it quite
narrow. Have not trialed with mockups but believe it won't go much further inboard than
12/14", where it will have a fiberglass tube and a long 1/2" bolt from side to side so that
the sprit canbe raised and bungeed to the stay. Has a 1/2 bolt thru holding the Sprit
weighs 5lbs.

The bobstay is shown in the literature is a modern guntackle - led aft to the cockpit! In
preliminary emails with Trogear, it is possible even to have a 'simple' rod bobstay, no
turnbuckle and chain. Don't know yet how actually it's rigged. But like the simplicity.

My mast has what I think is a true Solent tang about 18" below the masthead fitting.
That stay will go to the stem fitting. Think it possible to rig this stay permanently,not
readily removable. And have reefer/furlers on both stays, or a hanked on staysl and self
contained asymetricals or screechers with their own attached furlers...?

Also, the top long bronze bolt of the original stem fitting that goes thru the fitting to pop
out conveniently on deck is the strongest method I've ever seen. I had mine recast with a
fatter five-hole fin to take pin and stay loads better. Original toggle holes were elongated.


Those Trogear A-sprits are extravagant. Already have a self designed aluminum sprit that
I really like. But it's too heavy for the bow, too much for the boat. Shave 20lbs first off
on bowsprit alone. 5lbs, or more, on lighter bobstay gear. Anchor gear on deck will be
easier and maybe lighter with the bowsprit free and not part of foredeck clutter.

If I keep the hinge-up option for the A-sprit, the sprit can be folded up to pulpit making
sail attachment and retrieving easy. Something recent events make quite necessary.
"Easy does it, and if you can't go easy, go as easy as you can." Gertrude Stein

Couple coats Aluthane will make that $$$$$ snooty black carbon tube look like a good ole
aluminum spar!! Imco.


CARBONSOUP________________________________________ __________________________________
From the future: 10/19/21
The Trogear wishbone bowsprit is indeed an expensive and gorgeous piece of work. And
I did coat it with that amazing Aluthane, to me still great inventions. Hasse cruising sails
still need a bowsprit but also a place for an anchor-roller. Trogear allows no space for a
cruising anchor system - it had to go.
It's taken me literally FOREVER to get Litlgull ready to leave the Bay. I've stopped work
an embarrasing number of times. I've gotten older as well.
But discovered the dream is in my blood. There's nothing else but declining in a rocking
chair. End as a nasty curmudgeon with alzheimers or parkingsons or canser. 1/2 way there.

Urge Skipper Soup, below in these posts, to immediately launch A97 ang go sailing. Spruce
the ship up a bit - that would attract a partner.
Our Ariels and Commanders are foremost a form of ENERGY, Carbon you can't quit now!!!!!

[carbonsoup]

wow, that is a nifty bowsprit, though I dont see what the pivot is about. The Trogear is a pretty nice bit of kit as well. However, I am making a permanent bowsprit for the forestay. Currently, I have decided to set the distance at 18" from the bow, nothing extreme. As I said, I am trying to balance the rig a bit without having to shorten the sail area... some of you all are probably rolling your eyes. Nonetheless, I work at a metal fab shop and so far this little experiment has cost me nothing.

as a side note.. I am taking on more side work (design & fabrication) as I begin transitioning myself towards opening my own shop, so if any of you guys have some fab work let me know. For example, one thing I was thinking of making extra are some SS trim rings for the aluminum opening ports. The cast aluminum trim rings that I have are in many pieces. I am going to laser cut 12ga SS ovals... when I get a chance

[ebb]

Talk about nifty. Laser cut, I don't know the machine. Is it like a CNC that you program with
a computer / Shop here has one of those (personally don't know how to program any
computer) but it cuts with regular milling bits. What I'm asking: can you program individual
jobs? I had my aluminum opening ports powder coated. Because the coating is relatively
thick the trim ring now no longer slips over the spigot. Everything could remain the same
spec but the inside oval has to be slightly bigger, maybe a 1/32" all round. Would you
provide the fastener holes also?

The Troger A-Sprit can be mounted on deck, or as it happens, on the molded toerails, at
that height. That means one can micro adjust how much the bowsprit will project out.
They have end fittings. The preferred way is to mount the A-frame outside of the toerails.
Because the A-Sprit 15degree angle is not adjustable, that means because it is narrow it
is fastened pretty much forward on the bow. And down enough so the a fiberglass tube is
glassed in thru the bow (when you look into the forepeak you'll see it). A long bolt, possibly
threaded rod holds and hinges the spirit on, so it pivots. Or you can permanently mount it.

I had some preliminary email discussion with one of the A-Sprit designsers about permanently
mouinting the sprit. My thought is that carbon tubes are not really good in compression.
So I understand. But did get qan OK to use their thicker wall tube model... at a thicker
price. But then it occurred to me to axe the Solent idea, and use the inner forestay to rig
that mast at higher tensions.. And use the jibstay with light weather larger sails with the
sheet winches. Like the idea of folding the sprit up to the pulpit and attaching or removing
sails. And paying less for footage rent in marinas.

Best of luck with your new business!!!

[Commander 147]

You start making S.S. port lites I might be interested in a set.

[carbonsoup]

ugh. its been a while since i have worked on the boat, even though I see it everyday sitting in my shop. Even more annoying is Photobucket forcing me to pay for 3rd party hosting of all the build images.... so lame. I was emailed by a gentleman who wanted to see some of the images of the build, I had not put 2+2 together to figure out why he was not able to view the images on the forum.

anyone have a silver bullet? if someone can give me a good solution I swear I will do some work on the boat!

[carbonsoup]

Man, it has been forever! thank god Photobucket hasnt completely deleted my photos....

However, because I wanted to share ALL of the photos, models, drawings and data of the rebuild of A97 I have uploaded them to to my google drive.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...vh?usp=sharing

Contents:

1 - Spec Drawings
cleaned up original "lines" drawings
vector files of the "lines" drawings
original/novel interior drawings
3D models

2 - Construction photos
pretty self explanatory

3 - Electric Conversion
Useful calculator and electric info (as of 2014)
Custom electric drive mount (drawings and model)

4 - Logo Emblem
Original Ariel emblem pattern in PDF (vector file editable with adobe illustrator)
various logo images

5 - Rigging
v1 New mast head sheave box designed by Destiny (mike)
v2 Newest mast head design with "over-under" sheave placement.
Other various rigging info

7 - Trailer
Trailer design and info
construction images

8 - 1960s Brochure
Original artwork and brochure of the pearson ariel

9 - Previous Owners
1st and 2nd owner images

[carbonsoup]

I guess it would be obvious, but I havent had the opportunity to work on the boat in a very long time. It has been sitting in storage for the last 2 years.... and I dont think I will be returning to finish the job unless I get some renewed motivation. If someone is interested to purchase or partner in completing the project please dont hesitate to contact me. The boat is ready to roll (anywhere in the country).


best, matt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j2V...ew?usp=sharing

The retrofit, list, in no particular order:
1. Interior completely deleted and replaced with a unique design suitable for two to cruise Maine to the Bahamas. all interior plywood Okume BS1088 marine grade plywood. Sleeping for 4 (1 bunk under cockpit, large double in main salon, 1 bunk in bow) 85% complete
2. Retrofitted Four-Winns trailer motor boat trailer (2 axle w/disk brakes and pivoting tongue) 100% complete
3. Custom electric drive mount w/ 8.5K electric motor (complete electric motor kit has been mounted and test fit, but never tested/run), 75%
4. new PPY no drip drive shaft, 100%
5. new cutlas bearing, 100%
6. hull/deck seam fiberglassed, 100%
7. deck recored (previous owner), 100%
8. new stainless steel prop shaft, 100%
9. 3 blade (12x) prop, 100%
10. new main 4:1 sheet w/curved main sheet traveler, ready for mount
11. curved jib sheet tracks, ready for mount
12. rudder, completely new w/original bronze tiller shaft. needs final fiber and fairing. 90%
13. mail sail, brand new (used a dozen times) Beacon Sails in Annapolis
14. hull mounted chain plates (interior), 90%

Extras:
1. I started designing / fabricating a bowsprit (18”) from 316 Stainless steel to help with the weather helm.


What she needs:
1. rebuild cockpit coamings. I have 5/4 mahogany planks ready with pattern.
2. complete wiring, including electric drive integration and batteries.
3. needs all new lighting
4. electric drive testing
5. Remounting of all the original hardware
7. The boat needs top side paint and deck painted.
Basically, I would like to “finish” the boat by getting the boat ready to drop in the water. After that, it would be up to you to finish the interior and get the rest of the systems running.

How much:
1. I have no idea.
2. I might be interested in partnerships….