The truth about the ice box.

[commanderpete]

Those pans come in a standard size "a full pan" and fractions thereof...1/2 pan, 1/3 pan etc. They also come in different depths.

They're not cheap. You can sometimes find them used, but they'll probably be grubby and dented.

They're sometimes called "hotel pans"

Cheers,

Peter
former Head Chef

[CapnK]

Dear Head Chef -

How, exactly, does one go about preparing a Head for human consumption? I'm assuming you are speaking of Marine Heads, as this is a boating site? It would seem that the various porcelains and plastics would make them awfully tough, even with lots of cooking. Maybe Porta Pottis would be easier to prepare, being mostly just plastic...

[commanderpete]

Well, whenever I needed to get rid of something nasty I would make it the nightly "Special"

Serve it Cajun style or Fra Diavolo.

Beware restaurant "Specials"

[c_amos]

Kurt,

...as it is set up right now, though - I like that upper "shelf" space, and the fact that it serves as a high step helping to make it easier/safer to get down below when there is one hatchboard in. So, after looking once more at your pics, I think I have a plan - leave the upper shelf/box-top in place.....

I like the shelf too, the 'small shelf' I talked about above is actually a cut down version of the original ice box lid. The top of the Ice box looms rather large without the ice box under it. I originally cut it down to come out about 12", but even that seemed too far. I have now settled on something like 7".



My plan had been to glue new laminate to the top, but I have had trouble getting the new laminate to bond to the old laminate. Having a few projects going at once, it has found the back burner for now.

In this pic up in post #4 of this thread it looks like once I get the top and front off, it'll be easy to remove the insulation and inner structure. Am I being fooled, is this inner stuff attached in some way unknown and unseeable in these pics?

Do not be deceived. There are about 793 mild steel 1/4" wood screws comming into this from all angles. The 'less destructive' approach, is a hard road. I admit there were screws I had to tear out and even saw through because the only thing they all had in common was that the combination of 1). Mild steel, 2). Flat heads, 3). being threaded into teak made them all 4). Strip like you would not believe.

Also, I think turning the coat locker into shelved storage space is a good idea.

I have mine built, I am going to put teak or mahogany face boards on them. Once that is done, I will post some pictures.

[c_amos]

Took a couple pictures of the shelf. The first is the 'cleat' it rests on. It is more of a sill really. It is 20 1/4" and 2"high (5/8" thick) mohagany very much like the companion way is is next to. I countersunk 6 screws up from below to attach the shelf from the bottom.

[c_amos]

You will notice in this view, I have elected to retain the original blue/green (?)formica countertop material.

After attempting to get the laminate to stick to it, and then taking great pains to clean it I decided it was not so bad after all.

The shelf is about right, might have been left an inch or so deeper, but not much more then that. The things that will stay there under way are pretty small any way, and one of the big pluses of removing the ice box is having the space open.

I left the part that wraps around the side intact. I have kept my parallel rule there, plus it strengthens the shelf considerably.

[c_amos]

The hanging locker shelves have already filled up.

Really simple, just plywood, on cleats and [size=2]mahogany [/size]face boards. The plywood will be primed and painted, and covered with that rubberized anti-slip liner.

[c_amos]

The face boards are there for more then just looks. I wanted enough of a 'ledge' to keep things from sliding off. I intend to keep things in the plastic containers, and the face boards are just high enough to keep the containers (and other stuff like the autohealm) in place.

They are oiled (like most all the other interior wood).

[c_amos]

Another idea to gain access to storage space, is to open up the area under the companionway.

I asked if anyone had an extra cabinet door a while back, and Ebb sent me one from #338. (Thanks Ebb).

I measured it out and cut an opening. Of course you can already access half this space from the other door, but the sink drain limits the use of this. THen you can lift out the step, but mine was so tight, I rarely did so it was effectively lost.

It is lost no more.

[frank durant]

Great storage ideas. I'l be copying the door under the step for sure. Good thinking. #50

[Bill]

Interesting. The battery in #76 is under the bottom step -- just below the buss bars for the electrical system. Not much room for storage

[c_amos]

#226 has a platform sitting approximately 6" aft of the bulkhead. It is large enough for two large deep cycle batteries. It is about where, (probably fwd of where) the A-4 would be. That gives about the depth of the counter....

.....something like 24" of free space behind that door. Of course there is as much space behind original door under the sink, but the darn sink drain makes that space hard to get at.

I did not post this because I had not painted the inside of the sole yet. I know, I know, but the standard here is so blasted high. Anyway, here it is. In all it's un-repaintedness. The basket seen inside is something like 8" x 12"

Oh yea, and the other foolishness you will notice in the picture is the mini bungee. That is a temp, till I can find some kind of latch to approximate the original function.

[CapnK]

Lookin good, Mr Amos.

I sat, looked at, and sketched the aft end of the cabin last night. Been thinking on your comments re: the full size top-o-box shelf. While they make good sense, I may still leave mine full size. The space inside will become book storage/ bulk storage at the back, and an area for a laptop at the front. The full size top will help protect these from inadvertant wettings via the companionway. Not sure yet, at least until I gut the area, but I think that it would be an efficient way to use the space. I've decided that I won't be going for a dedicated chart table area, since the available areas are too small for an unfolded chart anyway. My empty bunk will suffice, methinks.

I also drew in some shallow cabinets in the area under the bridgedeck that looked good. Will mount the stereo/CD into those, so it's accessible by reaching in from the cockpit on nicer days.

Think I'm going to box in the area to port of the sink (bunk footwell area), putting a deep, long sliding drawer next to the sink, and a top-opening bin for the rest of the area, perhaps with a door also which will open forwards for easier stowage/access of large items into that bin.

The shelving in the hanging locker idea I think I will be stealing from you.

[CapnK]

These tapes were found in an old moldy bin in a warehouse in RI, and may go a long way towards explaining the construction of the icebox...
-------------------------------------------

Voice #1 (Pearson pres.?): OK, so we're gonna put an icebox in these baby Tritons?

Voice #2 (Swedish sounding): Yes, I think it will add to the functionality and appeal of the boat I designed.

Voice #3 (Portugese sounding, slightly slurred): Bueno! We can keep our cold, um, drinks - yes, cold soft drinks in there while we work on ze boats!

V1: OK, iceboxes it is then. Were will they be located?

V2: Starboard corner of the cabin, up high, with a reach-through from the cockpit.

V1: Ah! Good idea! Lots of sailors will find that convienent!

V3: Bueno again! We can reach into the iceboxes for our soft drinks when working without having to go below!

V1: Um... How are we supposed to make them?

(phone ringing in background)

V2 has a muted phone conversation, mostly heard is something like "Ya......Ya...Okay then."

V2: I have to go, someone wants me to draw a 35 footer. Goodbye! (sound of door shutting moments later)

V1: OK, since he's gone, I'm making a judgement call on this. We need those iceboxes built strongly. Heavens knows that sailors will need uncontaminated beer if the Red Menace launches a nuclear strike.

V2: Si.

V1: OK, make them with 3" of insulation, so the drinks stay cold along time.

V2: Um, Senor, there is not room enough for that much insulation...

V1: OK then. Hmmm. Alright, do this - make them of plenty of wood, as much wood as you can fit into that space. Put just enough insulation so that we can legally say it is in there. Then, use lots and lots and lotsof flathead bronze screws to put the things together. Make it so hard to take apart that noone will ever know how little insulation is in there. Put screws, lots of them, in inaccesible spots. Countersink those, fill in the holes, and paint over those spots afterwards to hide the screw holes. Where screws are accessible, cover them with fiberglass or formica adhesive. Line the interior with enough glass that someone would have to chisel it out to get to the screwheads. And for every screw that you put in, I want *at least* 2 nails elsewhere to make it even harder to take apart. There will come a day when someone will discover the lack of insulation, and we don't want to get sued over that...

V2: (sound of a slight burp) Si, Senor...

--------------------------------------------------------------

Yes, Craig, I took my icebox out today. Phew! Wasn't planned, I am getting ready to make Interior Cabinets Prototype #1, and I took off the door. Then I started on the formica on the face. Then I took off the upper trim. Then I...

3 hours later, all that's left is the vertical plywood by the steps. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with that yet, though I may opt for the small shelf idea like you did.

Man, I'm glad that's over. I'm itchy.

The new icebox is going into the space below the old one. Can't think of any other good way to use that space, once I have cabinetry in the area forward of there.

[c_amos]

Kurt,



also,


Just a reminder,

If any of the new Ariel owners need an Icebox door, the icebox cockpit hatch, or the hardware. I have them available.