Capt. Greg.
Looks like the Tritons have done the deck core every way possible.
And so have the Ariels. The real problems have to do with the choice of materials and the experience you have with epoxy. (The general and correct concensus is Not to use poleyester because it won't 'glue' new work to old.)
I would not use fir plywood as a core material - the quality is bad, it's full of voids and laminating skins or 1/4" stuff down would be even more of a problem with voids and potlife. APA plywood is junk, even marine grade.
I would support the fordeck with thin ply and battens inside using a bottle jack or two Very Gently, just snug, befor I cut into the deck up top. No force at all - one you cut you don't want the inside to be forced up in any way. 338, perhaps because it was late in the Ariel run, or late in the day, has a very thin inner layer of mat that I feel would be too flimsey to keep integrity if the whole foredeck was removed. Especially if you worry the surface smooth with grinding and sanding - or a knee.
Personally, I would do the foredeck completely. Then the sides. because of the weight of the coach roof. I think I'd want the front of the coach roof supported by the new composit deck. The strength of this type of costruction comes primarily from the skin. The deck composit is of primary importance in the integrity of the boat. I have argued in the past here that even the two main bulkheads do not support the deck structure. I would. Note down some measurements from the inside deck to the sole as a redundant check.
In case someone hasn't made this clear: I would juice the work with plain runny epoxy with a brush befor laying down the baltec or foam which you will probably spread with a thin coat of thickened epoxy.
If you feel you have to go with interior support befor you start, you might bend up some easily bent battens into the curve with a squirt of yellow glue between the layers and let it set. I haven't done this, but I think I would. Two or three of these temporary beams held up by a single two X four and a jack would support the aft part of the foredeck while you work the top. The front half of the deck with its factory piece of ply glassed in for the mooring cleat is probably not going to move, much.
Good luck! Take photos! Let us see your torture!
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