Oar locks

[Scott Galloway]

Ebb,

My mystery devices are home made. I designed them from reasonably-priced components available at my local sprinkler supply store. These parts are probably also available from most plumbing supply stores. We are talking four inch ABS pipe and fittings, and some neoprene.

Here is a shot of how they are put together from my new webpage. For more information on these devices, see my brand new (posted today) Pearson Ariel "Augustine" self-steering web page. I'll post more about that page on the self-steering thread soon.

Anyway, the URL for that webpage is: http://www.solopublications.com/sailariq.htm

A quote from that self-steering web page follows:

"The device in photo #103, is made from:

* Shown as "J": One four inch length of four (4) inch ABS pipe
* Also shown as "J": One ABS/SDR coupler for four (4) inch pipe with two hose clamps
* Also shown as "J": One end cap for four (4) inch ABS pipe with hole drilled in center to accommodate an oarlock. (the hole is not necessary unless oar locks are part of your plan.
* Shown as "I": One shim made of 1/8 inch neoprene cut to fit internal diameter of the 4 inch ABS pipe section.
* Shown as "M": Sleeve made of 5/8 inch clear tubing, with bevelled end to facilitate a tight fit into the winch handle slot on the jibsheet winch. (not necessary unless oarlocks are part of your plan)
* Shown in photo #102 as "N": one padeye and fasteners (bolt, two washers and lock nuts). The series 25 block will attach to the padeye. The padeye fasteners will hold the end cap onto the ABS pipe, and could also be used to secure the 1/8 inch thick neoprene shim "I".
* Shown as "K": One series 25 ball bearing block (also pictured elsewhere as block "G", however as "G" this block has an attached snap hook. As "K" it does not)
* Not shown here: A short Dacron line to tether the device to a pad eye or cleat. I used a piece of Dacron cord with a snap hook.This cord is attached to a pad eye used in my jackline system. The pad eye is located just forward of the jibsheet winch on the deck outboard of the coaming board"

[Scott Galloway]

Photo #102 shows an internal view of the device "J". You can see the center hole in the end cap and the the four (4) inch ABS pipe within the coupler. The neoprene shim is not shown in this photo. The jibsheet winches on Ariel #330 are Barient #_. The diameter of the base is four (4) inches, but the diameter of the top of the winch is three and three-quarters (3 3/4) inches, hence the need to recess the ABS pipe in the coupler and also the need for the neoprene shim. If your winches are a different size, you will have to search for an alternative pipe size or thicker shim. The ABS pipe begins just above the first (lowest) pipe clamp on the coupler.

Whether or not you are going to utilize this device as an oar lock for sweeps, you will want to build two of these devices, one for each jibsheet winch. And if you build two of these devices, you will have two tankards from which your crew of two can drink their daily ration of grog. A few rowing blisters and your crew will be screaming for grog.

[Scott Galloway]

By the way, I received the same $55.00 quote for Edey & Duff for their winch mounted oar locks, which they say can be mounted on any winch. I received that quote just this week, after I had already designed and built the devices shown in the above photos. I already had the NRS oarlocks also.

Also, in considering all of this, the height of the oarlocks above the deck is a factor in the design related to your seated or standing position while rowing. In the photo below, I am shown testing my new devices and the oar position at the dock both facing aft while sitting on the bridge deck (top image) and standing while facing forward (bottom image).

The stainless steel oar locks on themselves are built by NRS. The black cylindrical oarlock mounting device that fits around the winches is my design. Actually only the top half of the NRS 11 foot sweeps are shown in the photo. I had an opportunity about three miles out the other night to use my new NRS oars when I was becalmed at dusk for about a half hour before the north wind came up. They functioned well, although I must say that rowing an Ariel is a bit of work. I also have built a prototype of a holder for these same oarlocks that will fit in my flag pole holder on the transom. At the dock, this third "sculling" oarlock seemed to work. I need to test it at sea before I produce it in final form. It is a very simple device.

If you check out my self steering page, you will see the other reason why I built these things in the first place.

[CapnK]

Scott -

Good work! I bet that page took a while to get together - you have lots of information there, probably more than I have seen on any other StT self-steering page. I'll be going back to get a better grasp of it all.

I used StT steering on my other boat, and was quite pleased with how it worked. Lechters book is an invaluable resource, and resides aboard Katie Marie as a permanent part of the "crew". My gear is much simpler than what you have, and I understand several of the improvements you've made. In particular, I like the adjusting vangs - they would seem to provide a smaller, more precise range of adjustment than I was able to achieve with what I have. Your comments on the friction of using a sheet winch as a turning block are spot on. On my other boat, I placed a small block on a loop of line sized to fit over the winch, and it helped quite a bit. Your hard covers offer some advantages over that.

An idea for you, to maybe help out with your thigh bruises. How about using 2-sided Velcro, mounted under the cam cleats on the tiller (put one of the cleat mounting screws through the end of the Velcro tape), to hold the coil of excess steering line? Another possibility would be a small bag, maybe with 2 compartments, that would hang under the tiller there and collect the excess line coming out of the cleat. The bag could be removable, and serve as a storage container for some of your SsT gear. Just a thought.

Thanks for gathering and posting the information as you have. I'm sure that many people will benefit from your work.

[ebb]

Scott, FANTASTIC!
A quick scan shows I'm going to have to go back to study all those pictures and pages. And when I'm out of 338s bilges and actually sailing I will experiment using your generous info. It is most important. And if s-t-t steering proves itself on the A/Cs it would be so much better than that other ugly piece of gear on the stern.

Good thinking on the tankade devise! It's so fine that the A/C inspires inventions. You know, that's the intake of breath, birth, inspiration, soul - that stuff - that gives life to both skipper and his craft. Wonder why a boat is called 'craft', eh? Augustine lives! Thanks, Capitan.

Recall it was the vikings or the irish who invented round bottom tankards. You couldn't put it down until you'd drained it.

[Scott Galloway]

Ebb,

These tankards are even trickier. You not only can't set them down until you have finished your grog, but you also can't take your thumb out of the oar lock hole in that round bottom, or you'll have grog all over the deck.

Epiphany,

I learned how to avoid those cleats, and now that I have built the steering control box, I'll probably leave the box as built, but your idea of using Velcro to secure line ends is a supremely elegant idea. Thanks. Mayhaps I wil build a second steerign control box that way and try it out.

Anyway this self-steering stuff is best left for the self steering forum, so I shall post the url for the self steering page there now, and remain on track here related to the oarlocks. Suffice it to say that my tankard devices, when inverted, work great for oarlock mounts.

[ebb]

What did the inebriate say when he saw his finger in the bottom of his mug?

[Scott Galloway]

Humm, I am afraid to ask.

[Scott Galloway]

I have posted some photos and a description of my oarlock system and a few other interesting oarlock mounts on web page:

http://www.solopublications.com/sailario.htm

You will also find some links to oar resources on that page.

[ebb]

Scott,
A fantstic addition to your site.
Exactly the kind of full bore treatment needed for this unusual but very useful subject. Good chance 338 will steal your your innovative solution. Impressive full circle essay on the subject - maybe Good Ole Boat would be interested!

I've tried to engage Edey $ Duff on their winch oar locks but it has been distinctly unsuccessful. It could be a sign to go with everyday locks anyway. Any oar lock one fancies.

Thanks for the resource and your resourcefullness.
And Augustine looks prettier than ever!

When I was surfing around on the subject, I found a site with pictures on how to leather the locks. Was, briefly, a single piece of shaped latigo with a hole for the shaft to go thru and just enough to wrap the horns with baseball stiching on the outside. Looked very Brion Toss!

[Scott Galloway]

Ebb,

Wrapping the horns on the oar locks with leather seems like a good idea. I have oar rights on my oars, but the bronze cast oarlocks are a bit rough, and they do scrape the plastic oar rights. Thanks for the inspiration. I'll have to mess around with that idea a bit.

Also I finally posted the text and some photos for my structural retrofit page at: http://www.solopublications.com/sailarir.htm

[ebb]

This pattern are hefty (5/8" shank) deep and wide horned, white water oar locks.
The horns inside are wide and have a flat radius to 'spread the point load' on the oar. They are deeper, oval shaped and look like they'd look right on a larger boat like the A/C than rowboat transplants. Course this is conjecture from a photo.

Looks like one on the stern would make a good sculling lock, because its deeper design would hold the oar in place better at steeper angles. Looks like.

*Sawyer Cobra Scull Lock"

If you favor open locks over round ones these might work better because of the more extreme rowing or sculling angles that are necessary off the winch or stern.

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware...olcm/index.htm

[Scott Galloway]

Ebb,

NRS carries a similar oarlock, also called a cobra lock. It is pictured on page:

http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.a...401&deptid=981

I considered this oar lock, but opted to purchase the more traditional open oarlock, the "NRS Superston Open Oarlock", which NRS describes as "the finest whitewater open oarlock available! Made of Superston™, a proprietary manganese, and the strongest bronze alloy of its kind. Superston's composition assures unmatchable strength and remarkable corrosion resistance under severe conditions." This lock is pictured on my oar page http://www.solopublications.com/sailario.htm .

I liked the corrosion resistence under severe conditions part of the above quote.

But the cobra oar lock does look interesting. I have just never seen one on a ocean going boat, and this is not after all a white water application. The marine environment is a high corrosion environment, so those were my thought before I made my decision to buy the Superstron lock.

If you decide to buy a set of Cobra locks, I would be interested in knowing how you like them. price for standard pair = $50.00. Price of the NRS Superston Open Oarlock is the same.

NRS says about this Sawyer Cobra oarlock:

"This is the oar lock you've been waiting for. The cobra's wide horns have greater load area for much less stress on the oar-lock horns and increased durability. The elongated, oval opening allows for an additional 10-15 degrees of vertical range while keeping your oars snug in the locks. Made of a specially formulated bronze alloy for superior strength and proven by professionals throughout the world. Deluxe models are threaded with a lock-nut keeper to reduce play."

Please find below a photo of the Sawyer cobra lock from the NRS page.