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Thread: Tiller Yoke replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    57

    Tiller Yoke replacement

    Because Commander #92's tiller yoke is broken, I am considering Bristol Bronze part BB3101. Can someone confirm this will fit onto the existing rudder head. I would prefer to not replace that part as it appears to be in good condition.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    San Rafael, CA
    Posts
    3,546

    Bristol rudderhead

    Yes, that kinda looks like a replica of our 4.5lb monster.


    MAY BE OF INTEREST:

    My tiller-yoke varies at the narrow end from +1 3/4 to -1 3/4".
    Inside (where the wood goes) it's 1 3/8" wide and 1 1/4" deep.
    The fat end, where the head hinges on a 3/8" bronze bolt, it's
    2 1/4" outside, and 1 3/4" wide inside where the rudder head
    tightly fits. Yoke 8 1/2" long.
    Head is too complicated to express with measurements, but
    it could be done. The head is arse backwards in the drawing.

    This drawing is WRONG according to the rudderhead in
    my possession. Imagine swinging the rudderhead in the
    diagram closed in its housed position... The socket that
    fits over the rudder shaft end will here be positioned
    coming out of the top of the fitting! The tiller stop "to
    keep it from continuing down to the deck" is accessed
    only when tillerhead is fully housed in a 'closed' position.

    That flange
    (in the drawing under the two letters in BB 3901)
    should be bearing on the inside of the flat top. Rounded
    top of the head casting is what we should see in this
    open position upside down drawing - but rudder head is
    reversed. That flange will be seated against the under
    side of the flat top between the hinge arms of the yoke.
    However, the rudder head in the picture is so wonkus
    inaccurate that we can't even be sure what's depicted
    is merely a confused doodle of our original fitting.

    Looking at the drawing,
    if we mentally move the rudderhead fitting (BB3901) around and
    inside the yoke, that flange under the BB in the drawing is what
    a functioning tiller yoke (with its tiller) rests on when the tiller is
    down. The drawing figure cannot be repositioned correctly,
    because the artist was very confused. So you better call Roger up.
    Bristol Bronze. 1-401-625-5224, ask if anything's changed.
    Simple thing to say is: If the head shown in the drawing is swung
    180 into the yoke (which supposedly would be letting the tiller
    down into its streering position...) the drawing shows that the
    socket connecting rudder-head-to-rudder-shaft would point up to
    the sky from the top of the Yoke.
    No joke.

    Point being, the rudder head sits stationary (except for moving
    - but hopefully firmly attacted - with the rudder.) But it's the tiller
    yoke that does all the moving (up, down and all sideways).


    When you buy it, if you find the tiller yoke and head to be a true
    casting of the original, you may find the head fits a bit loose
    pearched on the top of bronze shaft.
    Someone once posted here that he used (4mil) aluminum from a
    Pepsi can as a shim to tighten up the free-fit.
    McMaster-Carr has $$bronze shim material. 316 would be OK.
    The small 5/16" hexhead MS that is threaded into the thicker
    side of the split socket head, looks like it is there to squeeze
    the two halves tight together, doesn't really do that too well.
    Therefor need for shim material. With the hard work this
    connection does, we need tight.


    You may also notice that there is nothing in the design that
    actually holds the rudderhead onto the rudderpost. Except its
    great weight. There are two #10-24 set screws that push the
    key against the keyway in the post. They are in the back on
    the slanted down side of the rudder tube. They are often forgot
    in rudder disassemblies. And you'll probably need a mirror to set
    the set screws.These are not enough to hold the head to the
    rudder post.
    Some guys have threaded two extra set screws (suggest 1/4-20)
    thru opposite sides of the socket and countersink* drill points
    into the post. While not strong, it probably is enough to ensure
    no accidental lifting off the entire steering system.
    * TIP: Pre drill the socket tap holes in a vise. Do not thread
    holes yet. Assemble. Use the same tap drill bit to drill
    countersinks into the rudder shaft for the set screw cone points
    - with rudder (but no tiller yet) carefully squared up in the cockpit.
    Then take rudder head to a vise and tap the set-screw threads.
    imco. '316 High Hold Cone Point Set Screws' McMaster-Carr

    The oversize set screws also help keep wobble from happening
    - which occurs because a loose key will wear the softer bronze
    keyway in the head. McMaster-Carr for 316 set screws.


    If using a laminated tiller, consider bolting through the flat(top)
    of the yoke - as others have done - instead of using predrilled
    holes in the side, creating a zipper effect of forcing holes thru
    glue lines. Tillers have split, weakened and broke. Use fender
    washers under the nuts.


    Bill has a new sleeve bearing that fits in the rudder-tube, and
    new O-rings available at cost. Replacing the old will also help
    reduce slop in the steering system. Use Tefgel on everything.


    Interesting that the Tiller-Yoke BB3101, $215,
    and the Rudder Head BB3901, $245, are priced separately.
    Assume if you are replacing you might be able to purchase yoke
    or head detatched. This would dramatically reduce your cost if
    you only need one of the two. However, rudder head closely
    match-fits yoke arms & bolt. Be surprising if available separately.


    Interested in hearing what happens. Good luck.
    Last edited by ebb; Yesterday at 12:46 AM.

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