Commander 147

[ebb]

Kicking a dead horse is the expression, but for the record:

Titebond III passes ANSI/HPVA Type 1 Specs.
Type 1 testing involves using birch plywood-like laminations cut into 1" X 3" pieces
boiling them for 4 hours, then baking for 20 hrs at 145 degrees.
They are boiled again for 4 more hours, then cooled using running water.
The pieces are sheer tested while wet.
One assumes the wood will sheer but not at the gluelines.

Generally woodworkers don't trust PVA aliphatic resin glues, probably because they grew up with them and became prejudiced one way or another.

The test above looks pretty rigorous, right?
Still, there are some that say over time, years later, in damp conditions Titebond III will creep (or are they remembering Titebond II?) Where's the proof?

The ingredients are proprietary. but it is a 'plastic resin' glue. So is Weldwood a plastic resin glue. Both glues require in gluing up laminations that the veneers if ripped have the SAW MARKS removed. Woodworkers say to glue only freshly milled veneers.
So prep is all important. You have to use the glue according to their specs. (Then boil your work for 8 hours)

In curved laminations
each piece of the laminate has a side under compression and a side in tension. That's a lot of stress we ask any glue to overcome. And that is why thinner veneers are better than thicker iones.

Some insurance for a curved lamination using Titebond III might be in DRIVING some fastenings through the stack near the ends of the finished piece.
Hardwood dowels might be used at right angle to the lams - glued in with the same glue.
One or two at either end, say, of a tiller could look decorative and might keep the piece from wanting to move over time. Just an idea!
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________________
Titebond III is not toxic - you can work without gloves.
Franklin literature, while full of hype about Titebond III, NOWHERE mentions that the product can be used for curved laminations.

[Commander 147]

I've been working some on the sink cabinet in my shop. I had bought some 1/4" thick corian from a cabinet guy that had a back yard full of scraps to use for my woodworking jigs. But I had enough of the grey stuff that I could use it for the counter tops in the boat. I don't have the fiddles attached in this mock up but you can get an idea of how the cabinet will look.

[Ariel 109]

Very nice Jerry. I like the pockets for the plates and silverware. If I can make a suggestion, how about a little scroll-saw cut vent in the under the sink cabinet door? Maybe a cutout of an anchor or a compass rose. I love little details like that.

Ben

[Commander 147]

Well Ben, I might just have to give that a shot. I have a scroll saw that has been sitting idle for some time. I may need to clean it up and give your idea a go. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Tony G]

Well, same as always, Jerry, outstanding job! You have such a good eye for this stuff. Very discriminating in the very best way. Have I missed something here? Have you done a rebuild on a boat before? Maybe as a profession???

I had wanted to put a solid surface counter top in but was told it is too heavy. Granted, you have about one-fifth the counter top in your photo above but still... How much weight do you have in that one piece there? I'd like to reconsider solid surface in the galley!

[Commander 147]

Hey Tony

Thanks for the complements and no I have never done a boat rebuild before. A lot of this is new to me.

You have picked up on the one drawback to the corian counter top. It is heavy. This piece is 1/4" thick and it tips the scale at 5 Lbs. Most Corian countertops use 1/2" thick material but that is a lot more added weight for no added benefit on a boat.